Interview with Dagmar Vlková, brewer of the Historical Brewery Český Krumlov.
Dagmar Vlková is the brewmaster of the historical brewery Brewery Český Krumlov s.r.o. She continues the tradition of brewing beer in Český Krumlov, which is practically connected with the establishment of the town since the 13th century. It is brewed with heart and without compromise. It wants to bring back honest South Bohemian beer to the historic brewery in Český Krumlov.
“In the premises of our brewery gardens, we welcomed and treated Prince Karel Schwarzenberg to our lager on the occasion of the celebrations related to the Grenadier Guards. It was an honour for us to speak with a nobleman whose family has made a significant contribution to the development of brewing in the Czech Republic,” says Dagmar Vlková.
You are one of the few women in the Czech Republic who works as a brewery brewer. When and why did you decide to work in a brewery?
Beer has been a lifelong love for me, nothing has changed that. I decided to become a brewer in primary school. We were 14 years old at the time, coming out of 8th grade elementary school. What could you know about life back then. I used to go to my mom’s brewery where she worked. There were a lot of wonderful and kind-hearted people there who helped each other. The pleasant atmosphere and the smell of the brewhouse when the beer was brewing influenced me the most. My personal choice was the brewery industry in Prague.
What are you responsible for as a brewery brewer?
I’m a microbrewery brewer. The range of activities is therefore wide and I am glad that I can pass on my long-standing knowledge and skills to the Historical Brewery in Český Krumlov. At the beginning of my many years of experience, I went through all the positions of the brewery from the ground up.
My responsibilities range from managing human resources, sourcing raw materials and packaging, creating recipes for new beers, legal and legislative duties, beer sales and a bit of commercial activity. I work with our newly opened cultural and social centre PORT 1560 to ensure that brewing history and techniques are not forgotten.
Beer is a living organism from the beginning to the end, and so it must be treated as such, I would summarize the work of the brewer in our microbrewery.
What does a brewer need to know and know how to do?
A brewer learns all his life. Beer is his signature. He appeals to the general public and, in Český Krumlov, to travellers from all over the world. Of course, he knows everything about the production of standard and drinkable beer.
To know a beer that appeals, to bring a taste experience, to know a little and to believe. Humility towards the craft of brewing and respect for the people working to make it is in order. Despite today’s automation, it’s still hard work.
You know very few women brewers, you have met only two in the Czech Republic and one of them is already retired. Do you know what the situation is today?
13 years ago, this was indeed the case. Today, the brewing world has opened up to more women. But it’s mainly their interest, effort and courage to want to succeed, mostly in a male collective.
Sometimes it’s a good thing to say, “You want to help the brewery, move there.”
I know several young women brewers and I wish them to endure, everything can be combined. It’s a beautiful profession. For me too, family came first and the brewery was a hobby. When the beer tastes good, and believe me, the tourists will tell you at first sight, it makes you feel full. Then when your beer wins awards at tasting competitions, you rejoice with the whole team and it’s the icing on the cake.
You are continuing the very successful historical tradition of the Schwarzenberg Brewery. Has anyone from the Schwarzenberg family visited you?
In the premises of our brewery gardens, we welcomed and treated Prince Karel Schwarzenberg with our lager on the occasion of the celebrations related to the Grenadier Guards. It was an honour for us to speak with the nobleman whose family has contributed significantly to the development of brewing in the Czech Republic.
Is there any difference in the concept of the function of a brewer for men and women?
Nowadays, the differences in concepts are no longer so great that one can perceive them.
What can your brewery offer?
The historic brewery Český Krumlov offers its beer drinkers and travellers from all over the world two types of pale lager and seven types of special beers, both bottom and top fermented. The most drunk is Krumlov 11 pale lager. The last novelty is Krumlovský medvěd pale strong beer 13. The strong malty fullness of the beer and the Žatec semi-fermented red wine are the best ingredients Krumlovský medvěd could wish for. (laughs)
You said beer should be beer and lemonade should be lemonade. How do you feel about flavored beer?
Still the same. From a business perspective, I have embraced the production of beer-based mixed drinks. Young people are interested in these mixed drinks, especially during concerts in our brewery gardens. Frankly, if our brewery doesn’t supply it, another brewery will make it and supply it. In the summertime, for these events and in our brewery restaurant, we supply it with a citrus flavour. We do not bottle or redistribute. After all, beer is beer and lemonade is lemonade. (laughs)
Where can we find beer from your brewery everywhere?
The brewery has about 30 outlets in Český Krumlov for cask and bottled beer. You can taste the entire range of draft beers in our brewery restaurant and at the CK Brewery, where they will also offer you bottled beer and other complementary sales of the brewery.
The farthest we go is to the Village Větrník in Lipno and to České Budějovice. We concentrate, as the brewery lingo goes, on the beer around the chimney. Our beers are unfiltered and unpasteurized. Our policy is to deliver the freshest draught beer possible and to look after the brewery facilities of our customers so that the beer really tastes good, refreshing in the summer heat. In winter we offer stronger beers with a strong malt component and a milder hopping for festive moments and close gatherings.
Do you think beer is healthy?
Of course, it contains a variety of beneficial substances when consumed in moderation.
Will beer survive the 21st century?
As it is written in the old brewer’s catechism: “Beer is a drink that no nation can take away.”
You’re a fan of tradition. What do you think is the best beer?
I could develop theories here on a more technical basis, but it wouldn’t do any good. The best beer is the one that our beer drinker drinks and enjoys a second beer.
How are microbreweries doing today?
It’s harder than when microbreweries were at their peak. Classic Czech pubs are on the decline. The market structure is changing, but microbreweries are responding. Where there is tourism, it’s a little easier for microbreweries. I know microbreweries where local people are proud of their local brewery and support its existence by buying local beer.
The advantage is that you can, not MUST, use high quality raw materials, not rush the production processes, as they say, “sit the batch out, give the beer time to mature”.
The microbrewery has the great advantage of offering a huge variety of different beer categories and thus a virtually unlimited taste experience. Young consumers have higher demands and like to experiment in tasting. For us older ones, it remains Czech lager. (laughs)
“God grant happiness and a cheerful mind!”
Photo: Provided by Dagmar Vlkovou
Author Renáta Lucková